Details of KAMA-ASA's apron here
The MakerIori Products
- Teruka Ochi, who separated from Johnbull Co., Ltd., started in 2020 (Reiwa 2). With the concept of "evolving manufacturing that is not bound by gender or age," they manufacture products in three categories: "Wear," "FootWear," and "Uniform" in Japan. In 2023, they opened the showroom "atelier iori products" in Okayama City.
TOPICS 01The first fabric goods were aprons filled with requests from KAMA-ASA staff.
Fabric goods like aprons and knife rolls are essential not only for professional chefs but also for general cooking enthusiasts. KAMA-ASA has developed several original products so far. Now, the "KAMA-ASA's apron" has joined these items. Furthermore, this time, we have also added stylish shoes, the KAMA-ASA exclusive tabito sneakers, which support the feet of chefs who stand for long hours while also being suitable for off-duty scenes. The relationship between KAMA-ASA and Ochi began in 2017 when Ochi was with Johnbull, an apparel manufacturer based in Kojima, Kurashiki City, the birthplace of Japanese denim. The first item created was an apron.
Kumazawa: In 2011, during the rebranding, we gathered aprons, but they were salon-type ones selected from a major uniform manufacturer's catalog. However, since we often carry and move things, the chest area gets dirty, and after about three weeks of using it, holes would appear from the knife's burrs, so I was always a bit frustrated. So, I talked to Haru Deguchi, who does our PR, about wanting to make an original apron domestically. Then, she introduced me to Mr. Kitagawa, the president at the time, saying, "Johnbull is a denim apparel manufacturer, but they also do uniforms." Ochi: That's right. In July 2017, Mr. Kitagawa was supposed to meet Kumazawa at the Harajuku showroom, and I happened to accompany them since I was in Tokyo for a meeting. At that time, the uniform designer was hospitalized, so I wasn't a designer, but I participated in that meeting and ended up being responsible for the design. The day before the meeting, I secretly visited the Kappabashi store. I thought I needed to see what kind of store it was to know what to propose.
The "Sharpening Apron" that became the trigger for collaboration with Ochi.
Kumazawa: You came to the store! I didn't know that. But even though Ochi wasn't a designer, he understood what we wanted to do and made various proposals. Ochi: I was in sales at first, right?
After becoming independent, I handle everything from design to sales basically by myself. "Sometimes my wife helps me, but I prefer to do everything myself. It's hard for me to let go of my hands," says Ochi.
Ochi joined Johnbull in a sales position and later became a merchandiser. He was someone who worked with designers. So, all of his design skills are self-taught. Still, there were a lot of requests from Kumazawa and the others. The KAMA-ASA staff wanted to put everything in their pockets, so they wanted to include measuring tapes and calculators, which was quite a challenge. We created three types of samples, A, B, and C, around September. Kumazawa: That's right. After that, we thought that if we were going to make it, it couldn't just be cool; it had to have some meaning. Then, a staff member from the knife department said, "It would be nice if we could remove burrs with denim," and I thought that was a good idea. Ultimately, it was decided that it would not only be for staff but also sold to general customers, and it was released on January 9, 2018.
TOPICS 02Reflecting the philosophy of continuing to cherish tools in product development
Kumazawa: Since the apron was so good, we thought we would like to ask for various other items, and the next request was for the shop's noren (shop curtain) at Kappabashi. Ochi: That's right. At that time, it was a lovely noren, but it had become quite worn out, and Wada (Yoichi, General Manager) asked me, "Can you make a noren?" We had never made one before, but I thought, "Maybe we can." When we made it with black denim, they liked it, and later requested the noren for the Paris store. Speaking of noren, we also made one for the Brooklyn store that opened in 2025. This one is made of linen, not denim.
The noren for the Kappabashi store. Made of black denim, it gains character the more it is used.
Kumazawa: Noren gets damaged because it is exposed to wind and rain, but with denim, especially Kojima denim, it develops character over time. I thought it matched KAMA-ASA's philosophy of using and nurturing tools, and it was really good. We also ask for repairs for the apron. Ochi: I personally started to question the consumption cycle of apparel, but I think I learned from those involved in uniforms. Everyone cherishes their tools, right?
Kumazawa: Around the same time, there was also a request from the knife department for a knife roll, and in November 2018, we released the "KAMA-ASA Denim Knife Roll." Everything we produce comes from the voices of the field. It's not just about doing something cool; it fundamentally comes from necessity. After that, we had mittens and eco-bags, and then the "KAMA-ASA Work Coat." Ochi: I remember doing that during the COVID-19 pandemic in 2020. After the state of emergency was declared, I received a request around May or June asking, "Can we make a winter uniform?" I had just become independent from Johnbull at the end of 2019, and then the state of emergency was declared, so I had some time on my hands. So, I was really happy to receive that contact. Since it was a complete uniform, I made it right away. Then, as is typical with KAMA-ASA, it ended up being sold starting in 2022 (laughs).
The "KAMA-ASA Work Coat" in a coverall style. It serves as streetwear as well.
Kumazawa: That's right (laughs). But I was happy that the uniform was completed, and it created a greater sense of unity. In fact, I had wanted to create a uniform since the rebranding, but I was uncertain about long sleeves being restrictive and the costs involved, so I had been feeling a bit uneasy about it. But now, with Ochi as a strong partner, I thought we could finally make a uniform. Ochi: I think it was quite a bold decision for Kumazawa to create a uniform. However, both the apron and work coat can be used for a long time while being repaired. KAMA-ASA's products are only those that Kumazawa and the others can confidently present to the world. The people at KAMA-ASA have the mindset of improving usability wherever possible, even in small ways. I am just adding a bit of design from a fashion perspective to those opinions. Therefore, the essence of each product is created by the KAMA-ASA team.
Coffee break near Uno Port in Tamano City, where Ochi's family home is located. Ferries to Naoshima also depart from here. "Recently, I've been getting more work in my hometown of Okayama, including uniforms for a ryokan in Naoshima," says Ochi.
Kumazawa: I am really happy to hear that. Also, I originally wanted to work in clothing, so it might seem like a bit of an abuse of power (laughs), but now when I vaguely say, "I want to create something like this," Ochi shapes it into reality. It's the best. The finished products are, of course, stylish and functional. By wearing them, our employees can gain more confidence and pride. I am very grateful for that. Ochi: The sewing is done by Active Co., Ltd., which also handles other fabric goods for KAMA-ASA, located in Kojima, Kurashiki City. I rely on Active for most of my work, and I only use one other company, but neither of them were companies I worked with during my time at Johnbull. Active has a much wider range of items they can handle compared to other factories. Moreover, they never refuse difficult jobs and enjoy working with us. I really trust Mr. Fujioka, who is in charge.
This woman sewing the "KAMA-ASA Tote Bag" is an incredibly skilled craftsman who can do anything. After her training period, she is currently active as an intern at Active.
Kumazawa challenges cutting denim fabric at Active's factory. The chisel used for cutting fabric is so sharp that it can cut just by touching it with a finger when freshly sharpened, but it seems that very few factories still use hand chisels for cutting. "There are no craftsmen who can make chisels or sharpen them anymore," says a craftsman with 15 years of experience.
TOPICS 03The new product "KAMA-ASA's apron" was created by incorporating feedback from yakitori restaurants.
The "KAMA-ASA's apron" with the button facing forward. It can be used like a regular apron when worn backward.
The idea for the apron, which will debut as a new fabric item, has been something Kumazawa has been nurturing for a long time. This time, it has finally been commercialized. Kumazawa: Aprons are functional, right? But design-wise, there was nothing good (laughs). So, I thought it would be great if we could create something that had a proper design and was characteristic of KAMA-ASA. At that time, I spoke with a couple who run a yakitori restaurant and wear aprons, and they said, "When skewering and grilling, my elbows rub, and the sides get torn." I realized that such a thing existed for the first time. If there are people in trouble, I want to make something for them. So, this time, I decided to finally commercialize it.
Ochi trying on a sample of the apron. He is wearing it in the so-called apron style with the button on the back.
Ochi: We incorporated various functional aspects. The issue of the sides tearing might be solved with a patch, but that wouldn't be cute, so we made it into a pocket. Moreover, adding a pocket to the side gave it meaning by making it usable from either side. Kumazawa: If you wear the round neck side in front, it feels like a regular apron, and if you wear the button side in front, it doesn't feel out of place when going shopping, and it can also be used as a café uniform. That was a good idea. Also, I really didn't want to put elastic in the wrists, so I had them make it roll up and fasten with a button. Ochi: There are various details, but one of them is that we used covered buttons to avoid damaging the tools. There aren't many snap buttons with covered buttons in the world. Also, I intentionally made the snap buttons a bit loose to prevent the fabric from being pulled and torn, making them easy to remove.
TOPICS 04The KAMA-ASA exclusive tabito "Tabi Trainer for KAMA-ASA" is an arrangement of the tabi shoes from "tabito."
The KAMA-ASA exclusive tabito "Tabi Trainer for KAMA-ASA" is unified in KAMA-ASA color black.
On the other hand, the sneakers were realized from Ochi's proposal. Based on the low-cut sneakers of the tabi shoe brand "tabito" developed by Iori Products, the upper is made of the same black denim and velour fabric as the apron and work coat, resulting in a KAMA-ASA-like finish. The structure separates the big toe from the other toes, allowing for a firm grip on the ground with the toes, making it less tiring for long hours of walking or standing work. It is perfect for both town use and for chefs and hall staff who stand for long hours. Kumazawa: Many people know about the comfort of "tabito" sneakers, so I thought we should make them in KAMA-ASA color.
A craftsman from Okamoto Seiko, who manufactures "tabito" sneakers. He uses a tool called "wani" to adhere the upper to the sole.
In front is President Yoichi Okamoto of Okamoto Seiko. Ochi, who was so enamored with tabi shoes that he considered switching to Okamoto Seiko, was suggested by the president to "do it yourself." This led to the unique style of Iori Products, which does apparel, shoes, and uniforms.
Kumazawa: By the way, is the name "tabito" derived from tabi shoes? Ochi: It may seem like it comes from tabi shoes, but actually, it comes from "with travel." When traveling, your feet are absolutely important, so I wanted people to have a comfortable journey with these shoes. The Okamoto Seiko company that makes these shoes has been recognized for its commitment to foot health, but when I launched "tabito," I didn't want to use the word health. I wanted to convey that if you wear something fashionable, it can actually contribute to foot health. The same goes for uniforms; they must not only be stylish but also of high quality and durable for years to come.
Various "tabito" shoes lined up at atelier iori products.
Kumazawa: By the way, how is the balance between the regular apparel line, shoes, and uniforms now? Ochi: Right now, uniforms are quite a lot. As the number of clients is increasing, it's about 50% uniforms, 40% shoes, and the remaining 10% apparel. We are not particularly marketing uniforms, but thankfully, they are spreading through word of mouth and referrals.
In front of atelier iori products. It seems that part of it will also be rented out as a studio in the future.
PRODUCTS Products from Iori Products
Written and edited by Murasaki Yamashita, photographed by KAMA-ASA
